Trevi Fountain—Rome
- Chris Rosa-Marie
- Aug 24, 2024
- 10 min read
Updated: Feb 22
We had one more stop for the day. Fatigue gripped us, but making headway in our itinerary for the day was crucial. It was something we all understood. There was a mix of excitement about being in a new country, and we were excited to move to our next location.
Buses are not allowed beyond a certain point throughout the city, and manoeuvring the streets, our bus seemed like a giant worm amidst the tiny cars, navigating a narrow maze. We were informed that buses have designated parking spots, and adherence is key to avoiding a fine. To add to it, coming from India, we just assumed that the temperature, if anything, would be tolerable in Europe. However, we were surprised how the heat bore down on us. It was like we never left home.
We had to walk from where the bus had parked, and this was when we got a chance to walk the streets. On our way, we saw loads of tourists walking, some in groups and some not. I would have to assume that they were headed to or coming from the same location - Trevi Fountain.
As we neared the place, our guide warned us to beware of strangers walking up and trying to sell us stuff or pickpockets, but what we were not prepared for was the crowd that emerged as we walked into the square. I was not prepared for that. As we walked through the narrow lanes, we reached a street with stalls and shops lined up on either side of the narrow walkway selling mostly souvenirs. I wish I used my time to pick up something small from there! Because we were in 'walk mode' and 'keep your stuff safe' mode, I did not think of capturing any images on the way there. I made mental notes of which shops were around and what I would have wanted to pick up. A man was getting his body painted (for crowd entertainment). Well, someone from our group had a small encounter with him later as we left. I would say we were at this square for about half an hour.
Unfortunately, I never had the opportunity to research this location, which was a damn shame. Since it was our first day in Rome, I did not have coins on me (if you do not know why, you will find out soon enough, like I did). Our guide mentioned something about tossing coins into the fountain, but since I hadn't brought any coins with me, I missed out. I was so tired that I could not think. I should have thought of buying something like a gelato or going to the stalls to get something just to get coins as change. Damn, what was I thinking! But crowded places make me feel anxious, and I had never been on such group trips before.
The Name
The fountain's name originates from the Latin term "trivium," denoting the intersection of three streets. Situated at the convergence of Via De' Crocicchi, Via Poli, and Via Delle Muratte, the fountain occupies a central position. Positioned at the junction of three roads ("tre vie"), it signifies the endpoint of the "modern" Acqua Vergine—the revitalised Aqua Virgo, one of the aqueducts that once delivered water to ancient Rome. The aqueduct is said to have been named after a beautiful virgin who led thirsty soldiers to a spring that once existed in the same spot.
A bit about the history...
The Trevi Fountain, located in the Trevi district of Rome, Italy, is an 18th-century masterpiece designed by Italian architect Nicola Salvi. It stands as the largest Baroque fountain in the city, epitomising the Western style of architecture, music, dance, painting, sculpture, poetry, and other arts that thrived from the early 17th century until the 1750s. Salvi's design earned him considerable recognition.
This was a 21 km long aqueduct (mostly underground) constructed by Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa around 19 BC, originally built for thermal baths. The display of spilling water was located on the site of the actual Church of St. Ignatius. The past popes usually decorated the end of the aqueducts they restored with large fountains that were richly decorated from the early Renaissance.
In 1629, Pope Urban VIII enlisted Gian Lorenzo Bernini to propose potential renovations for the fountain and a change in orientation to face the Papal palace. However, the project was abandoned following the Pope's death and due to a lack of funds. Despite the non-realisation of Bernini's plans, his influence is evident in various aspects of the fountain as it stands today. Competitions were a popular practice during the Baroque era for designing buildings and fountains. In 1730, Pope Clemens XII organised one such contest, initially awarding the commission to Alessandro Galilei over Nicola Salvi. However, due to the outcry in Rome over a Florentine winning the bid, Salvi was eventually granted the commission, and construction commenced in 1732. Sadly, Salvi passed away in 1751 before the fountain's completion.
The Fountain
The fountain is 26,30 m high (85.28 feet, 118 Roman palms) and 49,15 large (160.72 feet, 220 Roman palms). Every day, it spills 80.000 cubic meters of water (2,824,800 cubic feet). Erected on the site of an ancient Roman water source, the fountain is made of the same material as the Colosseum (travertine stone).
The design of the Trevi fountain is based on three architectural elements: a façade and a see reef made of travertine statues of Carrara marble.
In the middle, there is a niche framing the statue of Oceanus, adorned with free-standing columns, 5,8 meters high (16.4 feet high) carved by Pietro Bracci. His body is muscular and inclining toward fatness, and he has a long and abundant beard. His look is fiercely majestic and gentlemanly at the same time. In his right hand, he holds the wand in an act of command, and in his left hand, he holds a cloth around his pelvis to cover his nudity.
On the left side of the arch is the statue of Abundance, holding the horn of plenty. At her feet, a toppled vase lies by a source of water. Above her, there is a relief showing Agrippa commanding his generals to build the aqueduct.
In the right portion, there is the statue of Health, crowned by a wreath of laurel and holding a cup a snake drinks from. Above her, there is a relief showing a Virgin Lady indicating to soldiers the source of water.
Art, Archaeology and Renovation
The Trevi Fountain, completed in 1762 by Giuseppe Pannini (son of famous painter Giampaolo Pannini), was officially inaugurated on May 22nd by Pope Clement XIII. To combat discolouration caused by smog, the fountain underwent refurbishment in 1988 and again in 1998, during which recirculating pumps were installed.
In January 2013, the Italian fashion house Fendi announced sponsoring a 20-month, 2.2-million-euro restoration project for the fountain. Commencing in June 2014, the restoration concluded in November 2015, marked by an official reopening ceremony on November 3rd, 2015. Notable enhancements included the installation of over 100 LED lights to enhance the fountain's nighttime illumination.
The fountain's picturesque backdrop is the Palazzo Poli, a palace in Rome, Italy, which was modified in the 18th century to serve as the fountain's backdrop.
It is said that beneath the iconic Trevi Fountain lies an archaeological site. While many of Rome's architectural marvels draw considerable attention from tourists, some remain obscure and undiscovered. Vicus Caprarius, known as the City of Water, is an ancient Roman apartment complex located beneath the city's Trevi district. The archaeological site dates back to the first century but wasn't discovered until the late 1990s. Concealed just beneath the renowned Trevi Fountain, guides can help you with information on how you can gain entry.
Mythology
In Greek mythology, Oceanus was a Titan, born of Uranus (Sky) and Gaia (Earth), wed to his sister Tethys, and the progenitor of the river gods and the Oceanids. He was also depicted as the vast river encircling the entire world.
At the heart of the Trevi Fountain, Oceanus is depicted under a triumphal arch, his chariot drawn by two Hippocampi (sea horses or Tritons), mythical creatures symbolising the varying moods of the sea. One Hippocampus is tranquil, while the other is wild. Two Tritons (one is strong and young, one is older) guide Oceanus's chariot, with the elder Triton holding a twisted shell heralding the passage.
Triton, a Greek sea god and the offspring of Poseidon and Amphitrite, resided with his parents in a golden palace beneath the sea. Typically portrayed as a merman with a human torso and a fish-like tail, Triton's name eventually became synonymous with mermen in art and literature during the Greek and Roman periods. In English literature, Triton is often depicted as the messenger of Poseidon.
Coin throwing and the myth of Trevi Fountain
The tradition of tossing coins into the Trevi Fountain surged in popularity following its portrayal in the 1954 film "Three Coins in the Fountain." Millions of tourists flock to the fountain annually to partake in this ritual, contributing an estimated 3,000 euros daily. While the collected funds have been allocated to support a supermarket for Rome's disadvantaged, there have been recurrent incidents of attempted theft despite it being illegal.
Participating in the Trevi Fountain coin-throwing custom entails standing with one's back to the fountain and tossing a coin over the left shoulder using the right hand. The superstition dictates that tossing one coin ensures a return to Rome, two coins signify falling in love with an attractive Italian, and three coins indicate marrying that person, all promising good fortune and a return to Rome.
Regardless of the outcome, the coins serve a noble purpose. They are retrieved and directed to the Rome branch of Caritas, a global Catholic charity. Caritas meticulously tallies the collected coins and employs them to fund essential services such as food banks, soup kitchens, and welfare initiatives.
We had a nun and priest travelling with us on this trip, and our guide loved to make jokes. He jokingly made a comment to her during his interaction on the bus in his Italian accent - "And Sister, make sure you throw only one coin over your shoulder. You know what will happen if you do more than that." But, she was quite the sport. She managed to get lost on our way back, and the group had to wait, so someone was sent back to look for her and a couple of others.
The Church opposite the Fountain
The church facing the fountain is the Church of SS Vincent and Anastasius. Originally Roman Catholic, it has been home to the Saints Cyril and Methodius Bulgarian Orthodox parish in Rome since 2002. Its façade, adorned with 18 columns, has earned it the nickname "Reed Bed."
Fines
Sitting on the edge of the basin is strictly prohibited for visitors, as is any form of bathing, dipping, or entering the Trevi Fountain, along with all other fountains in Rome. Additionally, it is against the law to take coins thrown into the fountain, punishable by a hefty fine of 500€!
As we made our way through the streets back to our bus, we were weary and hungry. As we walked back, I noticed that the body-painted guy was all set up, and people were paying a small amount to get a picture with him. Someone from our group clicked a picture of him and walked away. The last I saw of him was shouting back at the lady, demanding his fee since he expected to be paid. Lesson learned for me (drop a coin and then take a pic). I should have picked up a gelato, too! But we had to hurry back and rush to keep up with the guide and the group.
Two things I realised right there... One is dinner is early (like 6 or 7 pm), unlike Indian dinners, which tend to happen by 9 pm or later. The second was traffic sense and discipline. In India, we are used to navigating traffic while crossing because 95% of the cars will never stop for anyone. Back home, we cross the roads anywhere and are not used to 'walk' signals, and no one adheres to zebra crossings. But here we were told to cross the streets at the crossings like everyone else. Some of our people were still crossing like they were in India. Well, it takes a lot to remove the Indian from an Indian, is all I can say.
Finally we stopped by at a local restaurant for a buffet style dinner. They were expecting us. The spread was huge and the choice was for the most part Italian and I loved it.
After dinner, we headed to our hotel for the night. Well, I had a few rude awakenings here...
The Hotel and My Observations and Feedback
The hotel we booked for 2 nights held a few very unpleasant surprises.
The hotel we stayed at was situated on the city's outskirts (45 minutes to an hour away). The hotel called 'Hotel Villa Vecchia' was anything but the best. For a 4-star, it lacked everything I had expected. The bus could not stop at the entrance, and we had to lug our baggage up a slope to get into the reception area. With no help from the hotel, we (including senior citizens) hauled our suitcases up a slope and into the reception. The rooms were cramped (twin sharing), the WIFI in the rooms were pathetic, and the staff were grumpy, unhelpful and downright rude.
Let me explain what I mean
Hospitality in India is different from the industry abroad. We were at a place that did not care. They were rude, demanding and indifferent.
Respect—For the most part, we were just an inconvenience that fit into their work life. They will not acknowledge, smile, or say a kind word (at least at this hotel).
Water - We are used to drinking bottled water or filtered water. Even though we were told that drinking water from taps was normal. What I found most disgusting is that we had to fill drinking water from the only tap in the room (the toilet cum bathroom). Since it was my first day in this country and the hotel, I called the reception to see if they had hot water or a drinking water filter somewhere in the hotel. The receptionist rudely told me to come down, so I did. The man at the reception was downright arrogant and asked me, 'Who told you to come down? We do not provide water.' The lady was no better. She comes out and in a loud voice. 'No water. You want water, you pay 2 euros.' Money was never the problem, but how these people spoke and behaved was unbelievable. So yes, I was severely dehydrated and drank out of the bathroom tap for the first time at this place.
Breakfast: All guests were directed to the basement for a buffet-style breakfast. The smell of dampness, typical of a basement that's never been aired, was our breakfast area. Upon early arrival, we were asked to wait outside till they called us. Unfortunately, the breakfast was not great, it was just average.
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